Snake Deck



Snake warning for beginners

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Snake Care for everyone

The crew of Pet Starship have been noticing that the once feared snake is becoming THE pet for everyone. All those stories of people getting bit by snakes or  getting squeezed are being changed. The snake is back! So of course we at the Pet Starship want to let you know how to take care of them.

First find out how long the snake will be so you can get the right size cage or tank. Usually 4 feet is good. Whatever you do…do not get a Burmese Python!. They get to be about 30 feet. Make sure the size of the cage is equal to the length and width of the snake.

 Find out how docile the specimen is. Most non venomous snakes grow quickly so keep that in mind. Also…make sure the pet snake can be handled easily and has a healthy appetite. Ball pythons are known to be very selective eaters. Snakes like other reptiles have a potential risk of carrying Salmonella and bad hygiene. So if you have small children in your home…please be aware of this fact.

One can always consult books or online to know more of these facts on snakes.


     Great White Python


     Green Tree Snake


     Burmese Python



Have you just gotten a snake for a pet?. Did it get a wound or blister/Burn?

Well here are some Pet Starship quick POINTERS.  

Soak the pet reptile in warm chest deep water to which Betadine has been added to color the water to a deep medium tea color. Make sure you leave in the tub for 15-20 minutes, refreshing the warm water and Betadine as often as neccessary. If the wound is swollen and crusty, make sure you carefully pick off the scab/crusty exudates. Note that if the reptile defecates in the tub, it must be washed out immediatly, disinfected and another Betadine soak set up. Flush the wound area with fresh water before being placed back in the new bath. Remove the reptile from the tub and flush the wound with fresh dilute Betadine. At night, just top off the wound with triple antibiotic ointment. Repeat for a week or until the wound is healing over. Just a note…some times it does take more then one week. If there is any sign of swelling which occurs after the bathing and treatment or such swelling does not abate after a week, the animal must be seen by an experienced reptile vet.

     Green Tree Python


       Ball Python                 Corn Snake


The best BEGINNER snakes for you.

Since snakes and other reptiles are becoming the fastest pets in the country, we wanted to help. So we gathered the crew and asked their opinions while doing research also. This is what we came up with. Snakes are an interesting species and require a lot of attention and commitment(They live 20 yrs or more) to making them an amazing pet. So to make this easy we wanted to give you a quick overview on what the top three snakes are to get. SSSSo…here we go.


Corn Snakes. (Elaphe guttata)


Corn snakes are one of the top pet snakes to get. Some of the reasons are they are very docile and don’t grow too large. They do have a tendency to be very creative escape artist, so make sure you have the right tank as their home. They come in beautiful colors and are related to rat snakes. They are mostly found in the South east and mainly active at dusk and night. They normally range 3-6 ft and are relatively inexpensive to guy and keep. Like any other snake or reptile before you buy…make sure they are legal in your state, look healthy with no scrapes or holes in the skin,or have mites or ticks.


King and Milk snakes (Genus Lamproletis)


These are the second most common snakes to get as your first pet. They have very colorful and exciting patterns and also can mimick coral snakes with bands of yellow, black and red. They are usually found in Canda, The US and many parts ofSouth America. They (like other snakes) live 15-20 yrs and can grow 6-7 ft or more. They eat mice, rodents, birds and even other smaller snakes. The basic care is like the Corn Snake and others that become pets.


Ball Python (Python Regius)

The python name has a scary attachment to it…but not the BALL python.Ther are quite docile and easy to handle. They are called BALL because when they are threatened they will put their head against their body and look like one. These snakes usually live longer than most snakes. An avg of 20-30 yrs…but have gone as much as 50! They are also more expensive but are known to be worth the extra cost. Again….before buying consult your state and look for the same health issues (skin, mites,etc). Another good thing is that they grab your hand and arm to show you they are curious and playful.   


       Adder                      Red Corn Snake




Proper snake enclosures


Maybe they’re not exactly cuddly, but snake make interesting pets. Regardless of the type of snake, from nice little corn snakes up to monster Burmese pythons, there are some principles that apply to setting up a cage or enclosure for a pet snake. One of the most important aspects is to make sure the enclosure is absolutely escape-proof.

Snakes are known to have Houdini tendencies when it comes to staying confined. Aquariums make good enclosures for snakes, but the lids have to fit tightly and be clipped on. Some owners make belts to attach around the enclosure for more security. Any doors or openings in the cage need to fit tightly or the snake will push against it trying to get out. Remember, most of them are pretty slim, so they don’t need that big of an opening to slip out.

The size of the enclosure should reflect the size of the snake. Many babies are insecure in a large cage and even have trouble finding their food. It’s usually advisable to put young snakes in smaller enclosures. To choose a size of cage for an adult snake, first measure the length of the snake. Get an enclosure with a perimeter that measures twice the length of the snake. For instance, a three foot long snake would do OK in an enclosure 12 by 24 inches.

The exception to the above rule is arboreal, or tree-dwelling, snakes. These need a taller enclosure with lots of branches for climbing.

A snake enclosure needs a material to cover the bottom, called a substrate. Newspaper can line the bottom of the enclosure, and makes a cheap surface that absorbs moisture and is easy to change when soiled. There are also special types of carpeting available at the pet store to use as a substrate. If you have two that fit, you can use one while washing the other.

Temperature is very important in a snake enclosure. Snakes are cold-blooded animals, and have to keep warm from outside sources. Ideally, a pet snake’s cage will provide several choices in temperature so the animal can regulate its body heat. This is done by heating one end of the enclosure only. Heating methods include heating pads under half of the enclosure or heat lamps. If using a light, it will need to be off during the night hours.

Thermometers should be used to monitor the inside temperature. Requirements vary from one species to another. A pet store product called a “hot rock” is widely discouraged because it has a tendency to burn pet snakes. Using a heat lamp or infrared heating panel is a far better way to provide the snake with heat. Some snakes have specific humidity requirements, too. A hygrometer can be used to monitor humidity. Misting the enclosure from time to time can help keep it more humid when necessary.

The snake will need a water bowl. Ideally it should not tip easily. For most varieties of snake, it should be large enough to take a soak once in awhile. Keeping it only about a third full helps avoid soaking the substrate. Pottery and wide based pet food dishes work well for water bowls.

A final necessity in the enclosure is a place for the snake to hide. This can be as simple as a plastic dish with a hole cut in the side. Having two, one on each end of the enclosure, gives the snake a choice. Setting up a nice enclosure takes a little time and money, but will ensure your snake has comfort and security.