How to Take Care of a Kitten: Week-by-Week Guide for the First 3 Months
Bringing home a kitten is one of those experiences that’s simultaneously thrilling and overwhelming. One moment you’re watching a tiny ball of fur chase its own tail across the kitchen floor. The next, you’re Googling “is it normal for kittens to eat that” at 2 a.m. while said kitten stares at you from on top of the refrigerator — a place you were absolutely certain it couldn’t reach.
The first three months with a new kitten set the foundation for your cat’s health, behavior, and bond with you. What you do (and don’t do) during this period shapes everything from litter box habits to how comfortable your cat is around strangers ten years from now. That’s a lot of pressure, but the good news is that kittens are remarkably resilient little creatures, and the basics aren’t complicated once you know what to expect.
This guide walks you through kitten care week by week, from the moment you bring your kitten home through the end of month three. We’ll cover feeding, litter training, vet visits, socialization, sleep, play, kitten-proofing, and the warning signs that mean you should call the vet. Whether your kitten is eight weeks old or twelve, whether it came from a shelter, a breeder, or the underside of your neighbor’s porch — this is your roadmap.
Before You Bring Your Kitten Home: Kitten-Proofing Essentials
Kittens are curious, fearless, and roughly the size of a potato. That combination means your home needs some preparation before the new arrival. Think of kitten-proofing like toddler-proofing, but for a creature that can jump five times its own height and fit through any gap wider than its skull.
Start with these priorities:
- Secure all windows and screens. Kittens can and will push through loose window screens. If you keep windows open, verify that screens are firmly seated in their tracks. Falls from even second-story windows can cause serious injuries — this is common enough that veterinarians have a name for it (high-rise syndrome).
- Hide or cover electrical cords. Kittens chew on cords. It’s not a question of “if” — it’s a question of whether they’ll do it while the cord is plugged in. Use cord covers, cable management boxes, or bitter apple spray on exposed wires. Unplug anything non-essential.
- Remove toxic plants. Lilies (all varieties), poinsettias, pothos, sago palms, and tulips are all toxic to cats. The ASPCA maintains a full database of toxic and non-toxic plants, and it’s worth checking every plant in your home. Lilies deserve special emphasis — even small exposures can cause fatal kidney failure in cats.
- Put away small objects. Hair ties, rubber bands, string, tinsel, sewing needles, coins, and small toy parts are all swallowing hazards. Kittens are particularly attracted to linear objects like string and ribbon, which can cause life-threatening intestinal obstructions if swallowed.
- Check your household chemicals. Store cleaning products, medications, insecticides, and antifreeze (extremely toxic and appealing to cats due to its sweet taste) securely behind closed doors. Consider child-safety latches on under-sink cabinets — kittens figure out cabinet doors fast.
- Close toilet lids. A small kitten can fall into a toilet and not be able to climb out. Make it a household habit.
- Check your dryer and washing machine before every use. Cats and kittens are drawn to the warmth and enclosed space of dryers. This is a genuine life-or-death habit to build — always check before you start a cycle.
Setting Up Your Kitten’s Space
Before bringing your kitten home, designate one room as their starter space. This doesn’t need to be large — a bathroom, spare bedroom, or even a large walk-in closet works. The idea is to give your kitten a manageable territory where they can find their food, water, litter box, and hiding spots without feeling overwhelmed by an entire house.
In that room, set up the following:
- Litter box — One uncovered, low-sided litter box with two to three inches of unscented clumping litter. Kittens under 10 weeks may need a box with a very low entry point (cut down the front of a disposable aluminum baking pan if needed). Place it away from food and water.
- Food and water bowls — Shallow, wide dishes. Cats dislike having their whiskers pressed against the sides of deep bowls (whisker fatigue is real). Place food and water in a separate area from the litter box — cats instinctively avoid eating near where they eliminate.
- A hiding spot — A cardboard box with a hole cut in it, a covered cat bed, or even a blanket draped over a chair. Kittens need a place to retreat where they feel safe. Don’t skip this. A kitten that can’t hide will be a stressed kitten.
- A soft bed or blanket — Kittens sleep 18-20 hours a day. Give them something warm and comfortable.
- A few toys — A crinkle ball, a small stuffed mouse, and a wand toy for interactive play are plenty to start.
Week 1-2: The Adjustment Period
The first two weeks are about one thing above all else: helping your kitten feel safe. Everything in your kitten’s world just changed — the smells, the sounds, the people, the other animals, the layout of the space. Even a confident, outgoing kitten needs time to decompress and orient itself.
What to Expect
Your kitten may hide for the first day or two. This is completely normal. Some kittens bounce out of the carrier and start exploring within minutes. Others wedge themselves behind the toilet and don’t come out for 24 hours. Both responses are healthy. The worst thing you can do is force interaction — pulling a kitten out of its hiding spot or passing it around to everyone in the household. Let the kitten come to you on its own terms.
Sit in the room quietly. Read a book. Talk softly. Let the kitten sniff your hand when it’s ready. The goal is to be a calm, non-threatening presence. Within a few days, most kittens will start approaching you, climbing on you, and demanding attention.
Feeding in Weeks 1-2
Kittens aged 8-12 weeks need to eat frequently — four meals a day is standard. Their stomachs are tiny, their metabolism is running at full tilt, and they’re burning enormous amounts of energy growing.
Feed a high-quality kitten-specific food (not adult cat food — kittens need significantly more protein, fat, and calories per ounce). For the first few days, feed whatever food the kitten was eating before you got it, even if you plan to switch. An abrupt diet change on top of the stress of a new home is a recipe for diarrhea.
If you want to transition to a different food, do it gradually over 7-10 days by mixing increasing amounts of the new food with decreasing amounts of the old food.
| Day | Old Food | New Food |
|---|---|---|
| Days 1-3 | 75% | 25% |
| Days 4-6 | 50% | 50% |
| Days 7-9 | 25% | 75% |
| Day 10+ | 0% | 100% |
Wet vs. dry food: Both are fine, and many veterinarians recommend a combination. Wet food provides hydration (cats are notoriously poor drinkers), has higher protein content, and most kittens find it more palatable. Dry food is convenient for leaving out between meals and helps some kittens with dental development. A common approach is to offer wet food at scheduled meals and keep a small amount of dry food available for grazing.
Always provide fresh water. Some kittens prefer running water — if yours seems uninterested in a bowl, a small pet fountain can make a big difference in water intake.
Litter Training
Here’s the encouraging news: most kittens already understand the concept of a litter box by the time they’re eight weeks old. Their mother taught them, or they figured it out by instinct. Your job is mostly to make the litter box easy to find and easy to use.
After meals and after naps, place your kitten in the litter box. If they use it, great. If they hop right out, don’t worry — they know it’s there now. If your kitten has an accident outside the box, clean it up with an enzymatic cleaner (not ammonia-based cleaners, which smell like urine to cats) and place the kitten gently in the litter box.
If your kitten consistently avoids the litter box, troubleshoot the basics: Is the box clean? Is the litter unscented? Are the sides too high for a small kitten to climb over? Is the box in a location that feels safe and accessible? Is it too close to the food? Solve those issues, and litter training almost always resolves itself.
Your First Vet Visit
Schedule your kitten’s first veterinary appointment within the first week of bringing them home, ideally within the first few days. This visit establishes a health baseline and catches any issues early — including upper respiratory infections, intestinal parasites, ear mites, and ringworm, all of which are extremely common in kittens.
At the first visit, your vet will typically:
- Perform a full physical examination
- Check a fecal sample for intestinal parasites (roundworms, hookworms, coccidia, giardia)
- Begin or continue the kitten vaccination series
- Discuss a deworming protocol
- Test for FeLV (feline leukemia virus) and FIV (feline immunodeficiency virus), especially if the kitten’s history is unknown
- Discuss flea prevention — even indoor kittens need it, because fleas hitch rides on humans and other animals
Kitten Vaccination Schedule
The core kitten vaccines are given in a series of boosters, typically every 3-4 weeks, starting between 6 and 8 weeks of age and continuing until 16 weeks. The schedule depends on when your kitten received its first shots.
| Age | Vaccines |
|---|---|
| 6-8 weeks | FVRCP (feline distemper combo) — 1st dose |
| 10-12 weeks | FVRCP — 2nd dose |
| 14-16 weeks | FVRCP — 3rd dose; Rabies (required by law in most US states) |
Your vet may also recommend the FeLV vaccine, particularly if your kitten will go outdoors or live with FeLV-positive cats. Until your kitten has completed its full vaccination series, keep it away from unvaccinated cats and avoid high-traffic outdoor areas.
Week 3-4: Settling In
By the end of the second week, most kittens are comfortable in their starter room and bonded to you. Now it’s time to gradually expand their world.
Expanding Territory
Open one new room at a time. Let your kitten explore at its own pace, and make sure it can always retreat to its starter room — leave that door open. Add a second litter box in the new area (the general rule is one litter box per cat, plus one extra). Watch for any signs of stress: hiding, refusing to eat, excessive vocalization, or litter box avoidance. If you see these, slow down the expansion.
Socialization: The Critical Window
Weeks 3 through 9 of a kitten’s life (roughly 3-9 weeks of age) are considered the prime socialization window, and weeks 9-14 are the secondary window. If your kitten is 8-12 weeks old when you bring it home, you’re still within this critical period — so use it deliberately.
Socialization means exposing your kitten to a wide variety of people, sounds, textures, and experiences in a positive, low-stress way. The goal isn’t to overwhelm your kitten. The goal is to build the neural pathways that say “new things are safe” rather than “new things are threats.”
Practical socialization steps:
- People: Invite friends over — different ages, different appearances, different voices. Ask them to sit on the floor and let the kitten approach. Offer treats. Keep visits short (15-30 minutes) and watch your kitten’s body language. Flattened ears, puffed tail, and hiding mean you’ve pushed too far.
- Handling: Gently touch your kitten’s paws, ears, mouth, and belly every day. This isn’t about forcing tolerance — it’s about pairing handling with treats and affection so that vet exams, nail trims, and medication administration aren’t traumatic later in life.
- Sounds: Play recordings of thunder, fireworks, vacuum cleaners, and doorbells at low volume while your kitten eats or plays. Gradually increase the volume over days. The goal is neutral association, not fear.
- Carrier training: Leave the cat carrier out with the door open, a blanket inside, and occasional treats. You want the carrier to be a familiar, positive object — not something that only appears when it’s time for the vet. Cats who are carrier-trained young are dramatically easier to transport for their entire lives.
Introducing Other Pets
If you have a resident cat or dog, introductions should be slow and controlled. Do not simply place the kitten on the floor in front of your existing pet and hope for the best. That approach works sometimes and fails catastrophically other times.
The standard protocol for cat-to-cat introductions:
- Week 1: Keep them completely separated. Swap scented blankets between rooms so they get used to each other’s smell without direct contact.
- Week 2: Feed both cats on opposite sides of a closed door. They’ll hear and smell each other while doing something positive (eating).
- Week 3: Crack the door or use a baby gate so they can see each other. Watch body language carefully. Hissing is normal. Growling or lunging means you need more time at the previous step.
- Week 4+: Allow supervised face-to-face meetings. Keep them short. Have treats ready. Separate immediately if either cat shows aggression (not just hissing — actual aggression like swatting with claws or chasing).
For dog-to-kitten introductions, keep the dog on a leash during all early interactions. Reward the dog heavily for calm behavior around the kitten. Never leave a dog and kitten unsupervised together until you’re absolutely confident the dog is safe — this can take weeks or months depending on the dog’s prey drive and training history.
Play and Enrichment
Play isn’t optional for kittens. It’s how they develop coordination, practice hunting behaviors, learn bite inhibition, and burn off the manic energy that would otherwise be directed at your ankles at 3 a.m.
Aim for at least two dedicated interactive play sessions per day, 10-15 minutes each. Wand toys (a feather or fabric lure on a string and stick) are the gold standard because they let you simulate prey movement while keeping your hands safely away from kitten teeth. Drag the toy along the floor, let it “hide” behind furniture, and allow your kitten to stalk, pounce, and “catch” it. Always end play sessions with a catch — letting your kitten win keeps them from getting frustrated.
Avoid using your hands or feet as toys. It’s adorable when a tiny kitten attacks your fingers. It’s far less adorable when a 12-pound adult cat does the same thing with full-size teeth and claws. Redirect biting and scratching to appropriate toys every single time, starting now.
Other enrichment ideas: crinkle balls, puzzle feeders (even a muffin tin with kibble in the cups works), cardboard boxes, paper bags with handles removed, and cat tunnels. Rotate toys every few days to maintain novelty.
Month 2: Exploration and Growth
By month two, your kitten is likely a confident, curious terror exploring every inch of the house, scaling furniture you didn’t think was climbable, and developing a distinct personality. This is also the phase where real growth happens — your kitten may nearly double in weight between weeks 8 and 12.
Feeding Adjustments
Around 12 weeks of age, you can transition from four meals a day to three. Continue feeding kitten-specific food — don’t switch to adult food yet. Kittens need the extra calories and nutrients in kitten formulas until they’re about 12 months old.
A rough feeding guideline for kittens at this age:
| Kitten Weight | Daily Calorie Needs (approx.) | Wet Food (per day) | Dry Food (per day) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2-3 lbs | 160-200 kcal | 1 – 1.5 cans (5.5 oz) | 1/3 – 1/2 cup |
| 3-4 lbs | 200-260 kcal | 1.5 – 2 cans (5.5 oz) | 1/2 – 2/3 cup |
| 4-5 lbs | 260-320 kcal | 2 – 2.5 cans (5.5 oz) | 2/3 – 3/4 cup |
These numbers are starting points — check the feeding guidelines on your specific food, and ask your vet if you’re unsure. Kittens should gain weight steadily. You should be able to feel but not prominently see their ribs.
Sleep Patterns
Kittens sleep a lot — 18 to 20 hours per day, broken into many short naps. This isn’t laziness; it’s biology. Growth hormone is released during sleep, and kittens are growing at an extraordinary rate. Don’t wake a sleeping kitten for play or socialization. Let them sleep, and engage with them during their active periods.
That said, your kitten’s active periods may not align with your schedule. Kittens are naturally crepuscular, meaning they’re most active at dawn and dusk. If 5 a.m. zoomies are disrupting your sleep, an intense play session right before your bedtime (followed by a meal — mimicking the hunt-catch-eat-sleep cycle) can help shift their activity window.
Ongoing Socialization
Continue exposing your kitten to new experiences, but respect their limits. By month two, your kitten should be comfortable with regular household sounds, being handled, and the people in your home. Now add in new textures (walking on different surfaces), brief car rides in a carrier (not just to the vet), and gentle grooming with a brush.
If your kitten will need to tolerate nail trims, start now. Hold a paw, press gently to extend one claw, give a treat. Do this daily. After a week, try clipping just one nail. One nail, one treat, done. Build up gradually. Kittens who learn to accept nail trims early rarely fight them as adults.
Scratching Behavior
Your kitten will start scratching furniture, carpets, and door frames during this period if you haven’t provided alternatives. Scratching is not bad behavior — it’s essential behavior. Cats scratch to maintain their claws, mark territory, stretch their muscles, and relieve stress.
Provide at least two scratching surfaces: one vertical (a post or wall-mounted scratcher) and one horizontal (a cardboard scratcher or sisal mat). Place them near areas where your kitten already likes to scratch or stretch — typically near sleeping spots and room entrances. When your kitten uses the scratcher, praise them and offer a treat. When they scratch something inappropriate, calmly redirect them to the scratching post. Never punish scratching — just redirect it.
Month 3: Building Routine
By month three, your kitten is no longer a fragile newcomer. It’s a small, chaotic cat with established preferences, a daily rhythm, and a surprisingly strong opinion about which side of the couch is theirs. This month is about locking in the good habits you’ve been building and addressing any behavioral issues before they solidify.
Feeding Routine
Three meals per day is still appropriate through month three. You can transition to two meals per day around 6 months of age. By now, you should have a consistent feeding schedule — same times each day. Cats are creatures of habit, and regular meal times reduce anxiety, help with litter box predictability, and make it easier to notice if your kitten’s appetite changes (a key early sign of illness).
Litter Box Maintenance
Scoop the litter box at least once a day — twice is better. Completely dump and wash the box with mild soap (not bleach or ammonia) every 2-4 weeks. If you’ve expanded your kitten’s territory, make sure there’s a litter box accessible on every floor of your home. A kitten that has to run downstairs to use the box will eventually decide the upstairs carpet is closer.
When to Spay or Neuter
Most veterinarians recommend spaying or neutering kittens between 4 and 6 months of age, though some shelters and clinics perform the procedure as early as 8 weeks if the kitten weighs at least 2 pounds. Talk to your vet about the right timing for your kitten during your month-two or month-three checkup.
Spaying or neutering is important for several reasons beyond preventing unwanted litters:
- Eliminates the risk of uterine infections and significantly reduces the risk of mammary cancer in females
- Eliminates the risk of testicular cancer in males
- Reduces or eliminates spraying (urine marking) in males — this behavior can start as early as 5-6 months and is much harder to stop once it begins
- Reduces roaming behavior, which lowers the risk of injuries, fights, and exposure to disease
- Cats in heat vocalize loudly and persistently — spaying prevents heat cycles entirely
Recovery from spay/neuter surgery is typically quick. Most kittens are back to normal activity within 3-5 days for neutering and 7-10 days for spaying, though your vet will advise you to limit jumping and rough play during recovery.
Behavioral Foundations
Month three is a good time to assess whether your kitten’s behavior is on track. Healthy behavioral development at this stage looks like: using the litter box consistently, eating well, playing enthusiastically, sleeping deeply, approaching family members willingly, and tolerating handling without excessive fear or aggression.
If your kitten is showing persistent issues — biting hard during play, fear of people, litter box avoidance, aggression toward other pets, or destructive behavior beyond normal kitten mischief — this is the right time to address it. Talk to your vet or consult a certified animal behaviorist. Behavioral issues are dramatically easier to resolve in kittens than in adult cats.
Warning Signs: When to Call the Vet
Kittens are more fragile than adult cats, and their condition can deteriorate quickly. Familiarize yourself with these warning signs, and don’t hesitate to call your vet if you see them. When in doubt, call. A false alarm is always better than a missed emergency.
- Not eating for more than 12-24 hours. Adult cats can go longer without food, but kittens can develop dangerous blood sugar drops (hypoglycemia) and fatty liver disease (hepatic lipidosis) much faster. A kitten that won’t eat is a kitten that needs veterinary attention.
- Diarrhea lasting more than 24 hours, or any diarrhea accompanied by blood, lethargy, or vomiting. Dehydration happens fast in kittens.
- Vomiting repeatedly. One vomit after eating too fast is usually nothing. Multiple episodes, vomiting with nothing coming up (retching), or vomit with blood requires a vet call.
- Lethargy or sudden behavior change. Kittens sleep a lot, but when they’re awake, they should be alert and active. A kitten that’s awake but limp, unresponsive, or hiding and refusing to engage is telling you something is wrong.
- Labored breathing, open-mouth breathing, or persistent sneezing/nasal discharge. Upper respiratory infections are common in kittens and usually treatable, but they can become serious if untreated, especially in very young kittens.
- Straining in the litter box. If your kitten is making repeated trips to the box, crying while using it, or producing very small amounts of urine, this could indicate a urinary blockage — a life-threatening emergency, particularly in male cats.
- Pale gums. Healthy kitten gums are pink. White, gray, or very pale gums can indicate anemia (often caused by fleas in young kittens), internal bleeding, or shock. This is an emergency.
- Visible worms in stool or vomit. Not an emergency, but call your vet to get the right deworming medication.
- Eye discharge, swelling, or squinting. Eye infections are very common in kittens and need treatment to prevent permanent damage.
Quick Reference: Kitten Care at a Glance
| Category | Weeks 1-2 | Weeks 3-4 | Month 2 | Month 3 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Feeding | 4 meals/day, kitten food | 4 meals/day, transition to preferred food if needed | 3-4 meals/day | 3 meals/day |
| Litter | Introduce box, place kitten in it after meals/naps | Should be using box consistently | Add boxes as territory expands | Maintain daily scooping routine |
| Vet | First visit within 3-7 days | Follow-up vaccines if due | Continue vaccine series | Final kitten boosters; discuss spay/neuter timing |
| Socialization | Let kitten adjust, gentle handling only | Introduce new people, sounds, handling | Expand experiences, nail trim training, carrier training | Reinforce confidence, address any fear responses |
| Play | Short, gentle sessions | 2+ interactive sessions/day | 2-3 sessions/day, add puzzle toys | Maintain routine, vary toys |
| Territory | One room only | Gradually add rooms | Most of the home | Full home access (supervised) |
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I bathe my kitten?
Almost never. Cats are self-grooming animals, and most kittens don’t need baths. Exceptions include kittens with fleas (your vet may recommend a gentle bath with kitten-safe flea shampoo), kittens that got into something messy or potentially toxic, and long-haired kittens that develop mats. If you do bathe your kitten, use lukewarm water and a cat-specific shampoo — never human shampoo, which can irritate their skin. Keep the experience brief and positive.
Can I let my kitten sleep in my bed?
Yes, if you want to. There’s no health or behavioral reason to keep a healthy, dewormed, flea-treated kitten out of your bed. The caveat: if you start this, your cat will expect it forever. Also, kittens under 8 weeks are too small to safely sleep in an adult bed — the risk of being rolled on is real. For very young kittens, a secure bed or crate in your bedroom is a safer option.
When can my kitten go outside?
The safest answer is: consider keeping them indoors permanently. Indoor cats live significantly longer than outdoor cats (12-18 years vs. 2-5 years on average for outdoor-only cats) due to reduced exposure to cars, predators, disease, toxins, and fights. If you do want to give your kitten outdoor access, wait until they’ve completed their full vaccination series (around 16 weeks), are spayed or neutered, and are microchipped. A catio (enclosed outdoor space) or supervised leash walks are good compromises that provide outdoor enrichment with much less risk.
My kitten won’t stop biting me. Is this normal?
Yes, biting during play is normal kitten behavior — they’re practicing hunting skills. But you need to teach them that human skin is off-limits. When your kitten bites, immediately stop play and withdraw attention. Don’t yell, flick their nose, or spray them with water (these erode trust and don’t work). Simply go still and silent, then redirect them to a toy after a brief pause. Consistency is everything. Every person in the household needs to follow the same protocol.
Do I need pet insurance for my kitten?
Pet insurance is worth serious consideration, especially while your kitten is young and healthy (pre-existing conditions are typically excluded from coverage). Kitten emergencies — foreign body ingestions, falls, infections — can easily cost $1,000-$5,000+. Monthly premiums for a kitten typically run $20-$50 depending on coverage level and your location. If a surprise $3,000 vet bill would be financially devastating for you, insurance provides meaningful peace of mind. Compare several providers and read the exclusion lists carefully before committing.
How do I know if my kitten is healthy?
A healthy kitten is active when awake, eats eagerly, gains weight steadily, has bright clear eyes, a clean nose and ears, firm (not hard or runny) stools, and a soft, clean coat. They should be playful, curious, and responsive to you. Weekly weigh-ins at home (a kitchen scale works fine for kittens) are a simple way to track growth — consistent weight gain is one of the most reliable indicators of overall health in young kittens.
My kitten cries at night. What should I do?
Nighttime crying is common in the first week or two as your kitten adjusts to being separated from its mother and littermates. A warm (not hot) water bottle wrapped in a towel and a ticking clock near their bed can mimic the warmth and heartbeat of a littermate. A small amount of food before bedtime and an active play session in the evening can also help. Resist the urge to go to your kitten every time it cries — this teaches them that crying summons you, and the behavior will persist. If the crying continues beyond the first two weeks or is accompanied by other symptoms, check with your vet.
Should I get a second kitten?
If your lifestyle and budget allow it, two kittens are genuinely easier than one in many ways. They entertain each other, teach each other bite inhibition and social skills, and are less likely to develop boredom-related behavioral problems. The cost of food and litter roughly doubles, and vet costs increase, but the day-to-day enrichment needs are much more manageable. If you’re going to get a second kitten, sooner is better — introducing two kittens at the same time is far simpler than introducing a new kitten to a resident adult cat later.
Final Thoughts
The first three months with a kitten are demanding, messy, and occasionally baffling. You’ll lose sleep. You’ll find paw prints in places that shouldn’t have paw prints. You’ll say “no, don’t eat that” more times than you ever imagined possible.
But these twelve weeks are also when you build the relationship that will last the next 15 to 20 years. Every gentle handling session, every redirected bite, every quiet moment sitting on the floor while a tiny kitten gathers the courage to climb into your lap — it all counts. You’re not just keeping a kitten alive. You’re shaping who your cat is going to be.
Be patient, be consistent, find a vet you trust, and don’t panic when things aren’t perfect. Kittens are resilient, forgiving, and hardwired to bond with the person who feeds them and plays with them. You’re going to do fine.